Sleeping with the walruses
Our Night with the Walruses at Pairi Daiza
Underwater Dreams..
There are places that don’t just offer you a stay—they invite you into a different reality. Pairi Daiza is one of them.
We arrived just as the sky turned from dove grey to gold. The road wound through Flemish fields softened by mist, as if Belgium was quietly holding its breath. And then—there it was. Rising between trees and whispers of steam: the temple roofs, the old brick brewery tower, and behind it all, the promise of something more than a zoo.
Day leaned forward in the car seat, eyes scanning for the first glimpse of “the world with the walruses.” She had memorized every video, every photo. But none of that prepares you for what it’s like to actually sleep beside them—to drift off under a blanket while 1,200 kilos of gentle power swirls past your window.
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Check in, in the land of the cold
We arrived early, just as the first light of day broke through the misty fields of Brugelette. The sun—still low and golden—cast long shadows over the awakening landscape. A gentle hush lay over the estate, as if Pairi Daiza itself was taking a slow, deep breath before opening its gates to the world.
Our overnight stay began at the heart of the experience: a spacious canvas lodge, majestic and warm, standing tall like the entrance to an expedition camp. Not a typical check-in desk, but something softer—more welcoming. As we stepped in gentle calm settles over you, carried by the scent of wood, autumn leaves, and the earth itself.
No queues, no clutter. Just a kind smile, a quick explanation, and the handover of a special wristband that held the key to everything. No physical keys, no cards—just a tap of the wristband opened our door, activated our lights, and granted us access to the park and all its hidden corners.
Our luggage? It was whisked away and waiting for us at our suite, leaving us free to begin exploring immediately. And from that very moment, it felt like stepping into a story that had been waiting just for us.
Two full days and one night. Time enough to let go. Time enough to sink in.
The land of the cold
After hours wandering the park’s autumn‑lit forests and temples, Day was buzzing to retreat to our underwater room beside the walruses. When we reached the entrance to The Land of the Cold.
A wooden staircase led us up—and then: the room door in hand for Day to open.
The hallway was dim, the floors wooden and slightly creaky, like an Arctic research base. The wooden grotto portal supported by rough-hewn beams, with lanterns flickering softly and an old railway track on the ground, the excitement built. The air was cooler here, scented faintly with salt and cedar. Day carried here wristband in her hand like a treasure map. One gentle beep, the door clicked—and we stepped into another world.
And wow—just like our first Polar Bear stay, it took our breath away again. We stepped into an ambient igloo‑like suite, half‑submerged in water, with every detail crafted to immerse you in arctic wonder.
At first it was quiet. Just the hush of air and the hum of something enormous. Then: movement. Slow, powerful, poetic. A walrus glided past the thick glass, his flippers brushing invisible currents, his small eyes scanning—did he see us? I like to think so.
We placed our wristband on a sensor—lights glowed on. First stop: the designer bathroom. A glowing ice‑spele mirror, jacuzzi bathtub with mood lighting, an elegant cristal sink and Arctic-style lighting—And then there was the bath. A freestanding tub placed directly before the panoramic glass wall. You could sink into its warmth while walruses glided silently past, just on the other side an otherworldly experience.
The room felt like part of the sea.
Soft tones of ice blue and muted grey surrounded us, with curved walls that whispered of igloos and Arctic calm. The bed, dressed in crisp white linen, glowed like fresh snow beneath the shimmer of northern light. Draped across it lay a heavy, fur-like throw—an homage to a bear’s pelt, wild and warm.
Dreamlike didn’t even begin to cover it.
Then we moved into our little living room—lower level—where two cozy couches framed by huge glass looked directly into the walrus pool. We watched, mesmerised, as one of those colossal sea mammals glided by inches from the window. Its tusks, whiskers, breathing ripples—everything felt surreal in the soft underwater glow.
Tip from us: Book for two nights if you can. Not because one isn’t enough—but because time folds here. You’ll want to savour the slow mornings, the quiet after the gates close, the joy of watching the animals without anyone else around.
Restaurant L’izba
Later, we wandered to L’Izba – just a few peaceful minutes’ walk from our room, through the quiet northern edge of the park. Nestled at the edge of the lake in The Land of the Cold, the wooden structure rose like a fairy tale from the forest—its design inspired by traditional Russian architecture, complete with intricate woodwork and an inviting glow from within.
Inside, the space was warm and welcoming: vaulted timber ceilings, wide glass windows framing the lakeshore, and soft amber lighting that gave the restaurant a golden, alpine feel. On sunny days, the spacious terrace outside must be magical—but even now, wrapped in the cozy interior, it felt like we’d stepped into another world.
The land of the cold
Dinner at L’Izba was included in our stay and far more than just a meal—it was a moment. Grilled specialties took center stage: juicy cuts of meat seared to perfection, accompanied by seasonal vegetables, crisp salads, and oven-warm bread. Every plate was beautifully presented, generous without being heavy. For dessert, a rustic apple tart, and the kind of velvety Belgian chocolate mousse that makes you fall silent for a moment.
We didn’t linger too long, though. The walruses were waiting. And the thought of returning to our underwater suite, with its icy glow and glass views into the sea, was almost too magical to delay.
even the restrooms are part of the wonder.
Every corner of Pairi Daiza feels carefully curated, as if no detail is too small to be magical. Even the toilets are a destination.
In one of the themed restrooms near The Land of the Cold, we found ourselves stepping into what could easily be mistaken for King Neptune’s private chamber. The walls were sculpted from mosaic-like shells, coral motifs and glittering stone. There was even a majestic trident—made, it seemed, from a shark’s nosebone—mounted above the mirror like an oceanic relic.
But the real surprise came with the door. At first glance, it was just another wall of blue—but look again, and you’d notice tiny silver fins flickering through the frame. The entire bathroom door was a see-through panel into a real aquarium. Fish swam lazily past, their shadows flickering onto the ceiling and floor as if you were deep underwater. When you stepped inside, the lights gently dimmed—offering privacy, but keeping that enchanting marine glow.
It felt surreal. A little whimsical. And yes, undeniably funny to find yourself “doing your business” while being watched by fish. Day was completely enchanted—taking twice as long as needed, just to marvel at the view. And honestly? I didn’t blame her.
Because in Pairi Daiza, even the restrooms are part of the wonder.
Face Masks & Foam Baths
Evening settled over the park, and we made our way back to our hotel room—our little sanctuary after a full day of exploring wonders. We ran a hot bath, letting the tub fill slowly, steam rising like soft clouds curling toward the ceiling. Let’s be honest: walking all day through such a vast and magical place is no small feat. Our feet were tired, but our hearts full.
Time for some well-deserved self-care.
We slipped into our robes, applied face masks with silly grins, and sank into a foamy bath with a view. Not just of the TV playing quietly in the corner—but of them. Our walruses. Just beyond the glass, they floated gracefully, their massive bodies like underwater dancers, completely unfazed by the world.
There we were: warm, glowing, a little wrinkled from the bath, sipping tea, watching giants glide by. A surreal, soothing end to a day that felt like part dream, part fairy tale.
Later that night, we cozied up in bed—our little ritual before sleep. We always take a moment to reflect on the day, sharing our favorite moments one by one, sometimes laughing, sometimes dreaming aloud. A warm drink in hand, a sweet treat within reach.
To set the mood, we lit a few candles around the room, their soft glow dancing on the walls. One flickered gently on the windowsill, right by the great glass where the walruses floated silently past, like giant spirits of the sea keeping watch as we drifted off into the night.
Day & Nicole
Thanks for joining us!
For reading and visiting FemmVoyage! I’m Nicole, a proud single mom to my 13-year-old daughter, Day. Together, we’re navigating the adventures of single motherhood, work-life balance, and everything in between.We’re a dynamic duo bud also facing the ups and downs of single motherhood, and all the adventures life has to offer. From family travels and weekend getaways to crafting,home decor, gardening, cooking, and fashion, I love sharing our journey with you.
At FemmVoyage, I inspire other busy moms, women, travel lovers, foodies, and home enthusiasts with practical tips, stories, and creative ideas, personal stories, and lots of fun ideas. So Whether you’re a single mom like me, how loves decorating your home and garden, or just looking for fresh inspiration, you’re in the right place and will find something here to spark your joy. Let’s make every moment count whether we’re on a trip or decorating our backyard!
Let’s explore life together.
