Stranded on Pemba
There we were, standing in front of a coastal hotel on Pemba Island. After the long, winding ride from the Manta Resort, we were both a little frazzled, ready to just drop everything and sink into a chair. Tomorrow, we were supposed to leave early by boat for Fundu Lagoon — a place unreachable by car.
So, we thought a night near the pier in Mkoani Port would be the simplest solution. But as soon as we stepped inside… well, let’s just say Day and I felt our stomachs twist. The place was filthy, dark, and unsettling. Dust and shadows clung to every corner. Even the rats seemed to hesitate before going to sleep.
Panic set in immediately. There was no way we could spend the night here. And with no other option to get to Fundu Lagoon by car, I grabbed my phone and dialed the lodge, hoping against hope that they had room for us — and maybe even the time to come and fetch us that very evening.
Chaos at Mkoani Port
Even our taxi driver, who had been with us all day, refused to leave us at that place — “You wouldn’t survive the night… who knows what could happen here,” he muttered. It felt like fate stepped in, because the team at Fundu Lagoon immediately came to our rescue. Of course, they had space and promised to send a boat straight away to pick us up.
And so it began. The owner of that ghostly hotel stood shouting at our taxi, his few teeth flashing in the dim light. But the taxi moved on, navigating the narrow, chaotic alleyways — a ride that made our stomachs churn and our hearts race. I can’t imagine being the driver!
Once we finally reached the port, it was a scene straight out of a movie. Tuk-tuks, bicycles, and scooters weaving in every direction, sometimes with four people crammed on one vehicle. People shouting, pushing luggage, cooking food by the roadside, while customs officers, police, and gate guards hustled through the chaos. Horns blared endlessly. It was a living, breathing ant colony — and somehow we had to drive straight through it.
After what felt like an eternity, we found a spot to park, still about a kilometer from the pier. Being the only foreigners in the crowd made us stick out even more, but thankfully our taxi driver walked with us, helping carry our bags through the frenzy.
And with that, our journey truly began — the real adventure to Fundu Lagoon was about to unfold.
Boarding Fundu Lagoon’s Speedboat
Thankfully, our taxi driver took the lead, guiding us safely through the throngs of people and even handling the tricky customs checks. Step by step, we made our way along the bustling pier. In the distance, the bright yellow speedboat of Fundu Lagoon came into view, and my heart swelled with relief and excitement — tonight, we would finally sleep somewhere safe.
As we reached the boat, a few final checks awaited from the Fundu Lagoon team before our bags were loaded. Then, at last, we stepped aboard, the gentle rocking of the boat beneath us and the golden glow of the evening hinting at the magic that awaited. Our adventure at Fundu Lagoon was officially underway.
Our bags were carefully loaded and secured onto the speedboat, and as we settled into the narrow seat — almost like riding a horse — a thrill of nervous excitement ran through me. Day sat in front, and I strapped on my backpack tightly, ready for whatever lay ahead. Just as we were about to set off, an unexpected guest hopped on board, and then, finally, we were off.
The crew cast off the ropes, started the engine, and slowly we began our journey to Fundu Lagoon. As we left the port behind, the waters opened up, and the waves grew slightly wilder. The boat bounced and leapt over the swells, but it was exhilarating — the wind whipping through our hair, the salty spray of the ocean on our faces. Day’s expression was pure adventure: equal parts thrill, challenge, and joy. I couldn’t help but smile — what a gift it was to experience this together.
After about fifteen magical minutes skimming along Pemba’s stunning coastline, the familiar pier of Fundu Lagoon appeared in the distance. The sun was slowly dipping toward the horizon, casting golden light across the water, and it felt like stepping into a fairytale.
As we drew closer, the island itself came into view, tucked among the trees: the private forest lodges peeking through the greenery, serene and secluded. Romantic, dreamy, and utterly in harmony with nature — here we were. We had arrived at Fundu Lagoon.
From Pier to Paradise
From a distance, we could already see people waiting on the pier — it turned out to be two helpers for the luggage and the manager of Fundu Lagoon, who greeted us with such warmth and kindness. What an incredible welcome!
As we walked along the beautiful, long pier, she told us stories about Fundu Lagoon — how it came to be, a little about its history, and where everything was. Her genuine warmth made us feel instantly at home. She led us to the lobby, offering a refreshing drink, and said, “Come, I’ll take you to your lodge.”
Walking through the lagoon, past the restaurant and bar, we followed a sandy path winding through the jungle until we arrived at our private haven. Our lagoon lodge sat right on the beach. A small wooden staircase led us onto the deck, surrounded by wooden railings, opening onto a terrace that looked straight out of a postcard. Between the greenery, the long pier stretched into the water, the sun slowly sinking behind it — pure magic.
The manager bid us farewell, wishing us a wonderful evening and inviting us to let her know if we needed anything.
A Dreamy First Evening on Pemba Island
Barefoot Paths, Jungle Sounds & Starlit Dining
Overjoyed, Day leapt onto her bed, her dreamy eyes taking in every detail. “Wow,” she whispered. The tent was incredible, and the view — simply breathtaking. After a quick refresh, we embraced the barefoot luxury of the lodge — as they say, it’s a true barefoot luxury experience. Walking on soft wooden decks and sandy paths, feet sinking slightly into the warm surfaces, it felt so natural.
Before heading to dinner, we smeared ourselves in mosquito cream — after all, the lodge sits amidst the mangroves, and the little biters are persistent. The strange thing was, you couldn’t see or hear the mosquitoes… but you definitely felt them. Ouch! Their bites were merciless. Armed with extra spray, we cautiously made our way to the restaurant.
Night had fallen, and the jungle was alive. Bats swooped overhead, and the slow, deliberate steps of a giant centipede cracked on the forest floor, sending shivers down our spines. The sounds were thrilling, eerie, and mesmerizing all at once.
Walking along the dark sandy path toward the restaurant, we finally arrived. A soft, dim light welcomed us, casting gentle glows on the wooden terraces. We were seated at a table on the edge of the lodge, with glimpses of the water shimmering faintly in the dark. Beyond that, the only light came from the restaurant itself and the occasional lantern along the pier — a perfect, intimate atmosphere, where the jungle and the night became part of our dining experience.
Dining in the Heart of the Wild
A Dreamy Dinner Beneath the Jungle Night
The waiter arrived with a warm smile and presented the options for our starter, main course, and dessert. Everything was fresh, full of flavor, and beautifully prepared — lots of fish, just what you crave after a day on the water. After bringing our drinks, he surprised us with a delicious amuse-bouche. Day and I sat there, soaking it all in, enjoying every bite but clearly feeling the long day settling into our bones. We had left Manta so early that morning, and the memories of the day still lingered vividly around us.
After dinner, we slowly made our way back to our tent. Even that short walk felt like an adventure. Using our phones as flashlights, we tried to spot where all the mysterious jungle sounds were coming from as we followed the sandy path. The night felt warm, alive, almost magical.
When we reached our tent, the mosquito net was already lowered — the bed neatly opened, soft lanterns glowing warmly, everything prepared for a peaceful night. We freshened up and settled in, still smiling about everything we had experienced.
We knew we were going to sleep so well… and wake up to the sight of the sea and the quiet beach, as if it existed just for us.
Sunrise Magic,Waking Up in Paradise
The next morning, i woke to the soft sounds of birdsong and waves rolling gently onto the shore. Day was still fast asleep, and I didn’t want to wake her. So I quietly slipped out of bed and headed out for a peaceful morning walk along the water — soaking in the sunrise, the stillness, the sounds, and the fresh scent of a new day unfolding.
With my camera in hand, I wandered along the beach, completely lost in the moment. Day knows by now that when she wakes up, she can take her time instead of rushing around because of me — forever feeling like the day has too few hours.
A little later, she appeared, sleep-soft and slow, walking towards me while I sat on the pier watching the sun rise. I just adore that sleepy little face of hers.
She sat down beside me, and together we quietly watched the sun climb higher above the horizon. After a while, our stomachs reminded us of their existence, so we made our way to breakfast. We returned to the same lovely spot as the night before, overlooking the beach.
On a long, boat-shaped table, the breakfast buffet was beautifully laid out — fresh fruit, pastries, warm dishes — everything inviting. We helped ourselves and, of course, grabbed a comforting cup of warm milk.
And then, suddenly, I spotted another one of those enormous millipedes. So fascinating, yet a little unnerving too. You’re truly in the heart of nature here. The moment you touch it gently, it makes this surprisingly loud crackling sound and curls up tightly — both strange and hilarious to witness.
Waking Up to Wilderness Magic
A Day of Discovery at Fundu Lagoon
After breakfast, we set off to explore everything around us — the stunning lodges, the shimmering pool, the lush nature, and the beautiful beach. Right next to the lobby lies the dive centre, where a world of adventure awaits: diving trips, snorkelling quests, and even excursions to a pristine sandbank.
We also discovered the chance to glide through the mangroves by kayak or stand-up paddleboard, exploring hidden waterways and taking in the peace and greenery around us. For a slower pace, there were village treks nearby, or guided island tours to spice plantations and the lush Ngezi Forest.
If relaxation is what you crave, you can treat yourself to a massage or beauty treatment in the spa. And after all that exploring, there’s no better place to unwind than by Fundu Lagoon’s beautiful coastline or its tranquil infinity pool — basking in nature with nothing but the sea in view.
Thank You, Fundu Lagoon
A heartfelt thank you to Fundu Lagoon for an unforgettable experience.
From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed into a world of serenity, beauty, and nature at its most magical. Every detail of our stay — from the stunning lodges to the peaceful surroundings and the gentle rhythms of the lagoon — made us feel completely at ease and truly cared for.
Our time here was a gift: relaxing, inspiring, and full of moments we will cherish forever. Thank you for creating such a magical place and for making our stay so special.
We will always remember our time at Fundu Lagoon with warmth and gratitude.
Day
Thanks for joining us!
For reading and visiting FemmVoyage! I’m Nicole, a proud single mom to my 12-year-old daughter, Day. Together, we’re navigating the adventures of single motherhood, work-life balance, and everything in between.We’re a dynamic duo bud also facing the ups and downs of single motherhood, and all the adventures life has to offer. From family travels and weekend getaways to crafting,home decor, gardening, cooking, and fashion, I love sharing our journey with you.
At FemmVoyage, I inspire other busy moms, women, travel lovers, foodies, and home enthusiasts with practical tips, stories, and creative ideas, personal stories, and lots of fun ideas. So Whether you’re a single mom like me, how loves decorating your home and garden, or just looking for fresh inspiration, you’re in the right place and will find something here to spark your joy. Let’s make every moment count whether we’re on a trip or decorating our backyard!
Let’s explore life together.
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